Injury Update 122817

I am 30 days back in and have already felt some of the aches and pains of my age (53.75 years). A week after reentry I felt an odd back pain running up my side, I figured it was just a small strain from the last session. That discomfort lasted a few weeks and began to scare me that something more ominous was happening to my body as it would not leave and I feared it might be organ related.

I was not doing anything super strenuous and decided to ice, stretch and just go easy. I kept climbing but just a high volume of easy V0-V5 range problems, stuff I could repeat without much work. After a few weeks, the pain subsided and that issue seems better.

Soon after another session, one that seemed benign as far as straining anything, my right middle finger knuckle felt stuck. I could not bend it 50% and almost felt like something was binding. I just assumed it was inflamed, I had no pain just pressure when I bent the finger. I iced, massaged the knuckle and used some Aleve for a few days, the finger seemed to go back to normal and now seems fine.

Wednesday of this week at home I was doing some hand strengthening exercises, the Towel Pull Up technique to slowly build more hand power.

I started with dead hangs for 10 seconds and followed that with ten sets of five pull-ups on the towels. I felt fine and no issues.

Thursday I hit the gym with the goal to send a V7 I have been working. I go through my normal warm-up (repeating several easy climbs (V1-V5) and see some new problems and instead of hitting my project I just have fun climbing the new stuff. These problems ranged from V2-V7 (flashed the 7, sweet!). As I was completing most of the new problems I felt a weird strain on my left shoulder doing a traverse move, an easy move but felt something funky in the shoulder.

I sent the problem and then rested (10 minutes) for the project. I could tell my shoulder was unhappy, but I went at it anyway. I could not send the problem and after two tries figured there was an issue with the shoulder and I should stop and rest it.

That night I massaged and took an Aleve. The next morning (Friday) it felt worse. I am a bit concerned but decide I will just rest, massage, ice and see if time will calm down the injury or issue. I woke this morning Saturday and 95% of the pain and discomfort are gone, the rest and rehab seem to have worked.

Of course since I felt better yesterday (Saturday) I did ten more sets of towel dead-hangs, honestly to see if that exercise is the culprit or if my shoulder was just tired from the volume of bouldering on Thursday.

My plan today is to continue some grip work to warm up and hit the gym today (Sunday). I will keep you posted on the body and how it reacts and of course my project and progress.

I believe these minor injuries will be continuous during this journey, I believe if I can pay attention and not abuse these as they occur I can stay healthy enough to continue training and hopefully on track to hit my goal in 2019.


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